First off, let me give you a disclaimer. I am not a veterinarian. I am a goat breeder wanting to help out people who may be new to goats and who want to know how I handle certain situations. Please keep this in mind as you read this.
1. Terminology:
Although you’ll hear them called many things, the most accepted terms for dairy goats are doe (female of breeding age), buck (male who has hit puberty), doeling (female sexually inactive), buckling (male sexually inactive), and wether (a neutered male). A weanling is a kid goat recently weaned. The terms Billy and Nanny are really no longer used by goat breeders, as it has been used so much in negative light. A dam is the mother of the kids. The sire is the father. Young goats are kids. When doe have kids it’s referred to as kidding. The number of kids is referred to as a litter. Disbudded means horn buds were removed at a young age; dehorned means the horns were surgically removed; polled means they are naturally hornless (this trait is passed on to about ½ of the offspring); scurs are short horns that have grown after disbudding (not desirable, but it happens sometimes). It should be noted that dairy goats cannot participate in AGS or ADGA sanctioned shows if they have horns and dairy goats are not normally left with horns.
Although you’ll hear them called many things, the most accepted terms for dairy goats are doe (female of breeding age), buck (male who has hit puberty), doeling (female sexually inactive), buckling (male sexually inactive), and wether (a neutered male). A weanling is a kid goat recently weaned. The terms Billy and Nanny are really no longer used by goat breeders, as it has been used so much in negative light. A dam is the mother of the kids. The sire is the father. Young goats are kids. When doe have kids it’s referred to as kidding. The number of kids is referred to as a litter. Disbudded means horn buds were removed at a young age; dehorned means the horns were surgically removed; polled means they are naturally hornless (this trait is passed on to about ½ of the offspring); scurs are short horns that have grown after disbudding (not desirable, but it happens sometimes). It should be noted that dairy goats cannot participate in AGS or ADGA sanctioned shows if they have horns and dairy goats are not normally left with horns.
2. What do we feed them and how much?
We feed equal parts of goat feed and sweet feed (purple bag at Tractor Supply®) to the adults. Along with this we give Chaffhaye, which is alfalfa hay that has been sprayed with molasses, packaged, and a small amount of starter yeast is put in the bag. The yeast is good for all types of ruminants and helps keep them healthy. Our bucks don't usually get sweet feed, but there isn't a problem giving it to them since the combination for either group gives a good 2:1 calcium: phosphorus ratio. We use a small cement mixer to mix it up since we use so much, but we had mixed it by hand previously and kept it in a metal trash can. Mix that up in a container & feed an amount that they can eat within 15 minutes time. Goats like a schedule and prefer to be fed around the same time every day, but exceptions can be made. We leave a goat mineral block out to make up for what is missing in their diets. We also use manna pro loose minerals, and the large all-stock mineral tub from Tractor Supply. We also give a Chaffhaye to the goats and have a round bale of good hay (not straw) available for them during the winter months when there isn't much to graze on. A good way to figure out how much you need to be giving them is that they should eat all of it within 15 minutes (30 minutes for kids under 4 months). For younger goats (even though it’s not necessary), I like to feed them 2 – 3 times a day since they can eat so little at a time. Our kids have an area sectioned off that only they can get to (creep feed) so they can get plenty of nutrition without the larger goats eating all of the feed (they can be quite selfish). Goats do need some type of long grassy-type mix in their diet to keep their rumen healthy (Chaffhaye works - or some hay for their diets). Goats need access to clean water 24/7. We use an auto waterer so that the water stays full at all times. If you have small and large goats cohabiting, make sure the waterer is at a depth they can reach it yet not be able to drown in it.
Goats love to eat the bark off trees, leaves that have fallen on the ground (or that they can reach on a tree), mesquite beans, fruit, vegetables, rose bushes, flowers, bread, cookies (bread and cookies should only be fed in moderation), pecans in (or out of) the shell (a great way to get rid of those hard shelled pecans), and cereal (Mine love the generic Cap’n Crunch with crunch berries and animal CRACKers - these should only be given in small quantities, if at all, since they are junk food). Unlike the rumors, they do NOT eat everything and are browsers not grazers. Although goats are considered browsers, (enjoying high things like bushes, etc.) our goats have been wonderful lawn mowers. We find they do best at keeping their areas trimmed up when they aren’t given access to large areas at a time. This also benefits the land if you do a rotational grazing.
Any change in feed should be done gradually, as changing feed can cause scours (diarrhea). We send a bag home with the buyer of the feed the goats are used to so they can integrate it with what they currently have, and lessen the chance of scours. Younger goats also sometimes get scours from being weaned or from the stress of moving from one place to another. Giving probiotics (available at feed stores) the day of transport will usually prevent stomach issues, so we give that to the goat prior to leaving.
If goats overeat it can be fatal. The left side of their body is where their food is stored. If you notice the left side very swollen and the goat foaming at the mouth then it’s likely your goat is bloated. Use a 20 to 30cc syringe (without needle) and give it 10ccs of vegetable oil by mouth – they usually like it so don’t worry about fighting them too much. Afterwards, lift the front legs up with the back feet on the ground (or back feet hanging if you are holding the goat) and it should burp up the rumen in no time (it’ll smell bad). If their left side still sounds like a drum after 10cc and/or they didn't burp, you may give them more vegetable oil.
We feed equal parts of goat feed and sweet feed (purple bag at Tractor Supply®) to the adults. Along with this we give Chaffhaye, which is alfalfa hay that has been sprayed with molasses, packaged, and a small amount of starter yeast is put in the bag. The yeast is good for all types of ruminants and helps keep them healthy. Our bucks don't usually get sweet feed, but there isn't a problem giving it to them since the combination for either group gives a good 2:1 calcium: phosphorus ratio. We use a small cement mixer to mix it up since we use so much, but we had mixed it by hand previously and kept it in a metal trash can. Mix that up in a container & feed an amount that they can eat within 15 minutes time. Goats like a schedule and prefer to be fed around the same time every day, but exceptions can be made. We leave a goat mineral block out to make up for what is missing in their diets. We also use manna pro loose minerals, and the large all-stock mineral tub from Tractor Supply. We also give a Chaffhaye to the goats and have a round bale of good hay (not straw) available for them during the winter months when there isn't much to graze on. A good way to figure out how much you need to be giving them is that they should eat all of it within 15 minutes (30 minutes for kids under 4 months). For younger goats (even though it’s not necessary), I like to feed them 2 – 3 times a day since they can eat so little at a time. Our kids have an area sectioned off that only they can get to (creep feed) so they can get plenty of nutrition without the larger goats eating all of the feed (they can be quite selfish). Goats do need some type of long grassy-type mix in their diet to keep their rumen healthy (Chaffhaye works - or some hay for their diets). Goats need access to clean water 24/7. We use an auto waterer so that the water stays full at all times. If you have small and large goats cohabiting, make sure the waterer is at a depth they can reach it yet not be able to drown in it.
Goats love to eat the bark off trees, leaves that have fallen on the ground (or that they can reach on a tree), mesquite beans, fruit, vegetables, rose bushes, flowers, bread, cookies (bread and cookies should only be fed in moderation), pecans in (or out of) the shell (a great way to get rid of those hard shelled pecans), and cereal (Mine love the generic Cap’n Crunch with crunch berries and animal CRACKers - these should only be given in small quantities, if at all, since they are junk food). Unlike the rumors, they do NOT eat everything and are browsers not grazers. Although goats are considered browsers, (enjoying high things like bushes, etc.) our goats have been wonderful lawn mowers. We find they do best at keeping their areas trimmed up when they aren’t given access to large areas at a time. This also benefits the land if you do a rotational grazing.
Any change in feed should be done gradually, as changing feed can cause scours (diarrhea). We send a bag home with the buyer of the feed the goats are used to so they can integrate it with what they currently have, and lessen the chance of scours. Younger goats also sometimes get scours from being weaned or from the stress of moving from one place to another. Giving probiotics (available at feed stores) the day of transport will usually prevent stomach issues, so we give that to the goat prior to leaving.
If goats overeat it can be fatal. The left side of their body is where their food is stored. If you notice the left side very swollen and the goat foaming at the mouth then it’s likely your goat is bloated. Use a 20 to 30cc syringe (without needle) and give it 10ccs of vegetable oil by mouth – they usually like it so don’t worry about fighting them too much. Afterwards, lift the front legs up with the back feet on the ground (or back feet hanging if you are holding the goat) and it should burp up the rumen in no time (it’ll smell bad). If their left side still sounds like a drum after 10cc and/or they didn't burp, you may give them more vegetable oil.
3. Shots and worming
Our dams receive a CD&T shot 4 weeks prior to kidding, which transfers invitro to their kids. The kids get a CDT booster at 4 and 8 weeks, and then yearly. If the dam does not get her pre-kidding CDT then the kid should get it at 4, 8, and 12 weeks. CDT protects them from various illnesses which they can pick up from grazing. It also includes the tetanus vaccine and overeating protection. You can get the CDT vaccine at your farm supply store. The vials need to be kept refrigerated. At Tractor Supply a vial with 10 doses is around $15. A 3cc syringe with 20 gauge needle is normally used. The dosage is 2cc (ml) either IM or SQ regardless of the age / size. Clean the site you are going to give the injection with a cotton ball that has been dipped in alcohol. I pinch the skin so I can have a good loose area of skin to do it subcutaneously (just under the skin). Slowly inject the CDT vaccination into the goat. After you have injected the solution rub the area to disperse the medication. This will help them have less of a site reaction. You can get the medicine, syringes, and needles at Tractor Supply or your local farm store. I have been giving the CDT in the front armpit (auxiliary) and seem to have less injection site reactions. It is normal to feel a whelp where they were given a shot. There is no need to be alarmed, it just means their body is reacting the the vaccine. It will heal up. On rare occasions they will get an abscess that will need to be drained. Rubbing the injection site helps disperse the medication so it’s tolerated better. After the initial CDTs, goats should have a CDT shot yearly. The goats cannot overdose on the CDT, so if you want your entire herd to be done a certain month, there is no problem in giving it earlier than when their CDT was due.
Only worm when a fecal sample has deemed it necessary or an immunity can be built up to the worming meds. A fecal sample will determine if your goats have worms and what type.
Our dams receive a CD&T shot 4 weeks prior to kidding, which transfers invitro to their kids. The kids get a CDT booster at 4 and 8 weeks, and then yearly. If the dam does not get her pre-kidding CDT then the kid should get it at 4, 8, and 12 weeks. CDT protects them from various illnesses which they can pick up from grazing. It also includes the tetanus vaccine and overeating protection. You can get the CDT vaccine at your farm supply store. The vials need to be kept refrigerated. At Tractor Supply a vial with 10 doses is around $15. A 3cc syringe with 20 gauge needle is normally used. The dosage is 2cc (ml) either IM or SQ regardless of the age / size. Clean the site you are going to give the injection with a cotton ball that has been dipped in alcohol. I pinch the skin so I can have a good loose area of skin to do it subcutaneously (just under the skin). Slowly inject the CDT vaccination into the goat. After you have injected the solution rub the area to disperse the medication. This will help them have less of a site reaction. You can get the medicine, syringes, and needles at Tractor Supply or your local farm store. I have been giving the CDT in the front armpit (auxiliary) and seem to have less injection site reactions. It is normal to feel a whelp where they were given a shot. There is no need to be alarmed, it just means their body is reacting the the vaccine. It will heal up. On rare occasions they will get an abscess that will need to be drained. Rubbing the injection site helps disperse the medication so it’s tolerated better. After the initial CDTs, goats should have a CDT shot yearly. The goats cannot overdose on the CDT, so if you want your entire herd to be done a certain month, there is no problem in giving it earlier than when their CDT was due.
Only worm when a fecal sample has deemed it necessary or an immunity can be built up to the worming meds. A fecal sample will determine if your goats have worms and what type.
4. Trimming hooves
We trim hooves every few months or as needed. We use the milk stand to contain them. This is a good time to be able to check over your goats and make sure they don’t have stickers, cuts, etc., that need your attention. If you don’t have a milk stand, please secure them to a fence or other stable structure and be cautious when trimming hooves, as you can easily cut yourself.
The first step I take is to trim the hair at the top of the hoof so I can see the coronal band. Your goal is to have the bottom of the hoof parallel to the coronal band. The trimmers I prefer are the WISS 7" trimmers. You can get them on amazon.com or at many of the home improvement / hardware stores. I use the WISS trimmers to get the initial long parts cut off, then I use a utility knife with no-cut gloves (for my protection) to get a nice close hoof trim.
The following diagram is just a visual of how some people do it. You will find the best way for you to trim hooves.
We trim hooves every few months or as needed. We use the milk stand to contain them. This is a good time to be able to check over your goats and make sure they don’t have stickers, cuts, etc., that need your attention. If you don’t have a milk stand, please secure them to a fence or other stable structure and be cautious when trimming hooves, as you can easily cut yourself.
The first step I take is to trim the hair at the top of the hoof so I can see the coronal band. Your goal is to have the bottom of the hoof parallel to the coronal band. The trimmers I prefer are the WISS 7" trimmers. You can get them on amazon.com or at many of the home improvement / hardware stores. I use the WISS trimmers to get the initial long parts cut off, then I use a utility knife with no-cut gloves (for my protection) to get a nice close hoof trim.
The following diagram is just a visual of how some people do it. You will find the best way for you to trim hooves.
5. How old before they can be used for breeding?
ND does should be at least 40 pounds (usually by 1 year old) and a wide enough pelvis to carry and deliver a kid / kids before they are bred. They come in heat about every 3 weeks for about 3 days and have a 145 day gestation period. The American Goat Society has a gestation calculator to help you figure out the does’ due dates. Make sure to change the box to small breed / 145 days. ND are not seasonal breeders and can be bred any time of year. They are known to be able to carry and care for large litters of kids, as many as 7! The most any of mine have had is 5. Large litters is a good reason to know when your does are bred so you can be prepared for kidding. I allow my does to be bred once a year (normally in the fall for spring kidding). For their health, they shouldn’t be bred more than 3 times in 2 years.
ND does should be at least 40 pounds (usually by 1 year old) and a wide enough pelvis to carry and deliver a kid / kids before they are bred. They come in heat about every 3 weeks for about 3 days and have a 145 day gestation period. The American Goat Society has a gestation calculator to help you figure out the does’ due dates. Make sure to change the box to small breed / 145 days. ND are not seasonal breeders and can be bred any time of year. They are known to be able to carry and care for large litters of kids, as many as 7! The most any of mine have had is 5. Large litters is a good reason to know when your does are bred so you can be prepared for kidding. I allow my does to be bred once a year (normally in the fall for spring kidding). For their health, they shouldn’t be bred more than 3 times in 2 years.
6. Wethers (banded or castrated bucks)
Fixed / altered / wethered / cut / banded (there are many terms to use, but the most common for goats is wethered) boys make GREAT pets but are also often used to clear land. One way to wether bucklings is by using a castration tool to apply a thick band around their scrotum. This is called banding. The testicles are put in the band (both testicles must be in the band, making sure the teats aren't trapped in the band). The area should be sprayed with a week betadine & water solution to try to ward off infection. This (and any other castration method) is painful to the buckling and the patient will usually lay on the ground and cry in pain for some time afterwards. The blood flow from the scrotum is cut off and sometimes it will leave a raw bloody band where the band meets the skin. I no longer use this method during very hot months when flies are bad. It takes about 1 – 4 months for the scrotum to fall off.
Another method we use, especially when the flies are bad in the summer, is the burdizzo or emasculator. It crushes the spermatic cords that supply the sperm from the scrotum to the penis. The burdizzo is a bloodless method so you don't have to worry about flies laying eggs in open sores which may be left from a bander.
Intact bucklings are able to successfully breed at about 3 months, and doelings often go into heat as early as 6 weeks! There are “buck aprons” you can purchase online which can lessen the chance of unwanted pregnancies for your doelings. If a doeling is bred when they are too small it will often lead to death of the doe and kids. If there is accidental exposure to a buck it is best to go to a veterinarian and abort the pregnancy with a Lutalyse injection approximately 30 days after the breeding takes place.
A quality buck (intact male) is half the herd. He will be breeding several of your does in most cases, so you want to have a really good herd sire with quality lineage. Bucks smell bad especially during breeding season in order to attract the does, so you’ll probably want them in an area away from your home. The bucks urinate on their face, in their mouths, etc. to attract does. If they don’t smell “good” enough does may not accept them to breed with them. If you don’t want to deal with this or don’t have a good separately fenced in area then you may want to consider finding a breeder who will stud out their buck or find someone who does AI. If you don’t want more than 1 buck then this would be a good time to get a wether so the buck will have a companion. This is important since goats are herd animals. You should always have more than one or it could cause it a lot of stress and sometimes leads to death.
Fixed / altered / wethered / cut / banded (there are many terms to use, but the most common for goats is wethered) boys make GREAT pets but are also often used to clear land. One way to wether bucklings is by using a castration tool to apply a thick band around their scrotum. This is called banding. The testicles are put in the band (both testicles must be in the band, making sure the teats aren't trapped in the band). The area should be sprayed with a week betadine & water solution to try to ward off infection. This (and any other castration method) is painful to the buckling and the patient will usually lay on the ground and cry in pain for some time afterwards. The blood flow from the scrotum is cut off and sometimes it will leave a raw bloody band where the band meets the skin. I no longer use this method during very hot months when flies are bad. It takes about 1 – 4 months for the scrotum to fall off.
Another method we use, especially when the flies are bad in the summer, is the burdizzo or emasculator. It crushes the spermatic cords that supply the sperm from the scrotum to the penis. The burdizzo is a bloodless method so you don't have to worry about flies laying eggs in open sores which may be left from a bander.
Intact bucklings are able to successfully breed at about 3 months, and doelings often go into heat as early as 6 weeks! There are “buck aprons” you can purchase online which can lessen the chance of unwanted pregnancies for your doelings. If a doeling is bred when they are too small it will often lead to death of the doe and kids. If there is accidental exposure to a buck it is best to go to a veterinarian and abort the pregnancy with a Lutalyse injection approximately 30 days after the breeding takes place.
A quality buck (intact male) is half the herd. He will be breeding several of your does in most cases, so you want to have a really good herd sire with quality lineage. Bucks smell bad especially during breeding season in order to attract the does, so you’ll probably want them in an area away from your home. The bucks urinate on their face, in their mouths, etc. to attract does. If they don’t smell “good” enough does may not accept them to breed with them. If you don’t want to deal with this or don’t have a good separately fenced in area then you may want to consider finding a breeder who will stud out their buck or find someone who does AI. If you don’t want more than 1 buck then this would be a good time to get a wether so the buck will have a companion. This is important since goats are herd animals. You should always have more than one or it could cause it a lot of stress and sometimes leads to death.
7. How long do they live / health issues:
They can live a long time (10-15 years) depending on their care. I have seen people who have 15-year-old does still kidding. Our herd is tested yearly for the major diseases affecting goats: CAE, CL, and Johne’s. A goat’s normal temperature is between 101.5* & 103.5*. One of the most important things you should have on-hand for your goats’ health is a good quick-read thermometer (preferable with a bendable tip). Too high or low temperature should be addressed promptly.
They can live a long time (10-15 years) depending on their care. I have seen people who have 15-year-old does still kidding. Our herd is tested yearly for the major diseases affecting goats: CAE, CL, and Johne’s. A goat’s normal temperature is between 101.5* & 103.5*. One of the most important things you should have on-hand for your goats’ health is a good quick-read thermometer (preferable with a bendable tip). Too high or low temperature should be addressed promptly.
8. Can they be house trained? What about other types of training?
They can be, to an extent. We have trained them to urinate outside, but goats don’t have any control over their droppings – they just poop when they are full. Goats can also be trained to do tricks. This is usually accomplished by rewarding them with treats when they perform the trick. It is not recommended that you play with bucklings like you are a goat and going to head butt it - or putting your fist out like you're another goat. This may be cute when they're small, but when they get big it's not cute any more. This will lead to injuries (usually to the person) when the goat gets bigger and wants to roughhouse.
They can be, to an extent. We have trained them to urinate outside, but goats don’t have any control over their droppings – they just poop when they are full. Goats can also be trained to do tricks. This is usually accomplished by rewarding them with treats when they perform the trick. It is not recommended that you play with bucklings like you are a goat and going to head butt it - or putting your fist out like you're another goat. This may be cute when they're small, but when they get big it's not cute any more. This will lead to injuries (usually to the person) when the goat gets bigger and wants to roughhouse.
9. Housing and bedding
Goats need to have access to a place out of the weather / elements. They hate to be wet. We use straw for their bedding, but any absorbent bedding may be used. As long as they can be out of the wind and rain they should be fine. They also like to sleep on top of things (and oftentimes outside). We use old thrown away desks or old tables for goat living quarters. Clothes / sweaters are not suggested for kids.
Goats need to have access to a place out of the weather / elements. They hate to be wet. We use straw for their bedding, but any absorbent bedding may be used. As long as they can be out of the wind and rain they should be fine. They also like to sleep on top of things (and oftentimes outside). We use old thrown away desks or old tables for goat living quarters. Clothes / sweaters are not suggested for kids.
11. Registration and tattoos
The two major ND goat registries are ADGA (American Dairy Goat Association) and AGS (American Goat Society). In order to register a Nigerian Dwarf (ND) you need proof that it is 100% ND by getting signed paperwork from the breeder. There are no “grade” classifications for this breed. Both of these registries have dairy goat shows. Goats that leave here will have WRG1 tattooed in their right ear. This shows where the goat was born. Registered goats will also have a number assigned to them, which is a letter for the year (2022 is P) and the number of birth they were on the farm (for example P29 was the 29th goat born at WRG1 in 2022).
We use this type of tattoo gun and this type of paste works best for tattooing. Tattoo link
The two major ND goat registries are ADGA (American Dairy Goat Association) and AGS (American Goat Society). In order to register a Nigerian Dwarf (ND) you need proof that it is 100% ND by getting signed paperwork from the breeder. There are no “grade” classifications for this breed. Both of these registries have dairy goat shows. Goats that leave here will have WRG1 tattooed in their right ear. This shows where the goat was born. Registered goats will also have a number assigned to them, which is a letter for the year (2022 is P) and the number of birth they were on the farm (for example P29 was the 29th goat born at WRG1 in 2022).
We use this type of tattoo gun and this type of paste works best for tattooing. Tattoo link
12. Supplements:
If you have a copper deficiency in your herd (characterized by a fishtail or their tail or rust color fur on a black doe) you will need to give them copper bolus. The dosage is 2 gram copper bolus for goat kids over 25 pounds and over 5 weeks old. 4 gram bolus is goats over 50 pounds and over 3 months of age. This bolus should last from 6 months to a year. Too much copper is lethal, so do not give extra thinking that more is better. The price is the same for the 4 gram and 2 gram, so I use a kitchen scale and gelatin capsules to make my own 2 gram boluses. The easiest way I have found to give the goats the bolus it to use a pet pill dispenser. Put the dispenser in the mouth, making sure their tongue isn't blocking the way to the throat. Then push the plunger to the dispenser and the pill should go straight down their throat. |
In addition to copper, there are various minerals they need for their best health. Consult your local ag agency or veterinarian to see if you are in a Selenium deficient area. If so, you can get a vial of BoSe from your vet. You will also need to get their recommendation for the dosage of BoSe to give your goats since all areas have a different amount of selenium already in their soil.
Some loose minerals we give to the goats free-choice is Manna Pro loose minerals. Although the goat block at the feed stores do not contain as high of a percentage of the minerals as the loose minerals, the goats do like it more because it has molasses in the block. It can be found at your local feed stores also.
Some loose minerals we give to the goats free-choice is Manna Pro loose minerals. Although the goat block at the feed stores do not contain as high of a percentage of the minerals as the loose minerals, the goats do like it more because it has molasses in the block. It can be found at your local feed stores also.
13. BUGS!!! Oh bugger! We have bugs! OK, the goats live outside, every bugs' domicile. Yes, goats get fleas, mites, and lice. LICE!? Oh no! These lice are species-specific so you can rest easy, even though that word makes me itch. For external parasites I usually use CyLence topically down the nape of the neck at a dosage of 1cc per 25 pounds. The dosage is repeated again in 10 days.
14. Misc. info
Goats have bottom teeth only in the front, but have teeth on the top and bottom at the back of their mouth. Be very careful not to put your fingers in the back of their mouth, as they have a lot of force and can really hurt you. Goats lose their baby teeth just like people do, but most of the time you don’t find them. I have found several of them and find them quite interesting.
Goats have bottom teeth only in the front, but have teeth on the top and bottom at the back of their mouth. Be very careful not to put your fingers in the back of their mouth, as they have a lot of force and can really hurt you. Goats lose their baby teeth just like people do, but most of the time you don’t find them. I have found several of them and find them quite interesting.